Top 15 Tips To Assess Collectibles

1. AGE

When you Assess Collectibles, look for a copyright date (check on the bottom, the back, and/or the packaging) which indicates the year the item was created.

The older an item is, the more valuable it is. An item that is 100+ years old is an "antique”. An item that is at least 20-years-old (but less than 100) is "vintage".

2. AVAILABILITY

Availability refers to how difficult an item is to obtain. If an item is retired (no longer distributed, circulated, or publicly available), it is worth more money. And the harder it is to find, the more valuable it becomes.

3. QUANTITY

It's important when you Assess Collectibles to check for limited edition numbers. Limited edition numbers are found on the front, back, or bottom or an item.

Limited edition numbers indicate the total quantity produced and the issue number within that total. Items produced in smaller quantities are more valuable.

Also, low edition numbers (i.e. 22/1200) and high edition numbers (i.e. 1168/1200) are more valuable than middle edition numbers (i.e. 714/1200).

Furthermore, a limited edition item usually comes with a Certificate of Authenticity (or “COA”) which specifies the edition number and provides important information about the item.

4. POPULARITY

If an item's function and/or design are universally known and well-liked, it is worth more money. Be aware that popularity often fluctuates due to social trends, media exposure, environmental impacts, and newsworthy events.

For example, lava lamps were a big hit in the 60s and early 70s but by 1979, interest in the lamps died down. But then, because of the “Spy Who Shagged Me” movie and the TV series “That 70’s Show”, lava lamps got their groove back.

5. BRAND

If the item features an image, name, and/or logo that's associated with an iconic (well-known around the world) brand (i.e. Star Wars or Coca-Cola) it is typically priced higher.

6. CREATOR

When you Assess Collectibles, also look for the creators signature or mark on the item. If the creator is well-established in their field, the price will be higher (i.e. Tiffany).

If you are unfamiliar with the creator, take a picture of the item and of the signature/mark, then check the pics in Google Lens or Google Image to find out more about the item and its creator.

7. CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE

Ask yourself if the item has aesthetically, scientifically, socially, or spiritually made an impact on past or present generations (i.e. Art Deco). If the answer is yes, it is more valuable.

8. HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE

To Assess Collectibles, ask yourself if the item is related to an event(s) that profoundly affected a lot of people’s lives (i.e. Militaria). If the answer is yes, it is more valuable.

9. ORIGINALITY

When you Assess Collectibles, it's important to know if an item is an original or a reproduction (it should specify if it's a reproductions). Collectors prefer originals.

Some reproductions can still be considered valuable but they are not as valuable as originals which are priced much higher.

10. AUTHENTICITY

Watch out for fakes that are being sold illegally under the pretense that they are what they say they are. Look closely for/at:

• identifying marks (i.e. trademark symbol)
• slight differences in the brand logo
• slight differences in the brand design
• slight differences in the spelling of the brand name
• slight differences in the brand colors (i.e. Coca-Cola uses a specific red)
• slight difference in stitching
• place of manufacture.

11. IRREGULARITIES

Analyze the item to see if it is different from what it was intended to look like. The more unique, the more valuable.

For instance, a nickel that was misprinted with a three-legged buffalo (instead of the standard four-legged buffalo) is very valuable.

12. PROMO

Occasionally an item is released early to certain venues for promotional purposes (not for sale) after which it was never distributed to the public or after which changes were made. Promo releases are priced higher.

13. SIGNED

To properly Assess Collectibles, look to see if there is a signature or autograph of the subject or artist.

An autograph is a name hand-written by a famous public figure that is often accompanied with a message. A signature is the public figure's formal cursive written name.

Sometimes a signature is preprinted on item before it is produced. An autograph, on the other hand, is put on an item after it is produced which makes the item unique.

Having the signature on an item makes it more valuable but having an autograph on an item is even more valuable and fetches an even higher price.

14. QUALITY

When you Assess Collectibles, look closely at how well the item is made. How well an item is made determines its durability. Well-made items last longer and handmade items with a lot of detail take a more time to complete so they are priced higher. Check the following:

• workmanship (i.e. stitching, fastening, welding)
• materials/fabrics used (i.e. synthetic polyester vs natural cashmere)
• technique used (i.e. handmade vs factory)
• skill level (i.e. amount of detail)

15. CONDITION

An item is also priced based on its physical appearance and mechanics in relation to its age (i.e. fading, chips, scratches, missing pieces, etc). With the exception of certain antiques, usually the better the condition the higher the value.

When you Assess Collectibles, an item’s condition is based on a grading system. Each industry uses its own grading system. However, there are some general terms that can be applied to most items which are:

• M (Mint): never used; in perfect condition.
• MIB (Mint-in-box): never used; in perfect condition; in its original packaging complete with instructions and attachments (i.e. tags).
• MNB (Mint No Box): in perfect condition but not in original packaging.
• NM (Near-Mint): looks new; may or may not have the original packaging.
• HTF (Hard-to-Find): rare.
• EX (Excellent): barely used; no damage; minor signs of wear but hardly noticeable.
• VG (Very Good): looks very good; has minor defects (i.e. chip or light color fading).
• G (Good): used with defects; has medium defects (i.e. color loss, chips, cracks, tears, missing parts, dents, abrasions).
• P (Poor): used heavily; severely damaged; beyond repair.